Insider Edition: A special adventure through the Outaouais

Editor’s Note

Big things are happening here at the Lookout. As paying subscribers, we wanted to keep you updated.

First, we’ll be launching Capital Eats next week, our brand new food and drink publication. It represents the next big step in our mission to make local news, restaurants and events more accessible to everyone.

Second, the Insider emails will now be sent through Capital Eats. All the food news you’ve loved from Ralf will be the same (plus some new content!), but it’ll come from the Capital Eats address.

How does this affect your subscription?

• You’ll start receiving Insider emails from Capital Eats, every Thursday.

• We’re expanding our food coverage, so every Tuesday you’ll receive an extra restaurant review. Yahoo!

• You’ll continue to get Ottawa Lookout every Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

Whew! Now that we go through that housekeeping, please enjoy this week’s edition of the Insider.

— The Lookout team

Good morning,

Just a quick note that in the first two weeks of September I will be away on a much-needed break. After the upcoming Pizza Safari newsletter, I couldn’t have picked a better time.

Thank you again to all our readers for your suggestions and for your keen interest in Ottawa as a burgeoning culinary destination.

In today's Insider we look at the following:

• Touring the Pontiac region in Part 2 of our series

• A local success story now with international recognition

— Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor

PS - Have story ideas? Want to chat about the reviews? You can reach Ralf here at this email: [email protected]

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GRAND TOUR

Touring the Outaouais, Part 2

Missed the first part of our Pontiac tour? Read it here.

We had just left Domaine de Pontiac Village winery in the Outaouais village of Quylon and the next stop? Coronation Hall Cider Mill in Bristol.

Our guide, Brandon Bolduc, took us down quiet country roads and several feelings settled over me simultaneously. The scenery was calming and I felt catapulted back in time. A time when I was a child on a road trip with my father. Even now as I write this, I'm unclear if my father ever drove out to the Pontiac but whatever the reasons for this sense of familiarity, I was grateful for the memory whether real or imagined.

We drove past the site of the old iron ore mine and then on to the historic resort community of Norway Bay in Bristol. As we rounded our way past the natural pier at the beach we were stopped and serenaded in French and English by an enthusiastic chanteuse.

Minutes later we arrived at Coronation Hall Cider Mills and were greeted by the cheerful and bearded owner, Greg Graham. He proceeded to tell us about the history of the property and then led us to his cider production facility where he produces a hard English-style cider as well as traditional non-alcoholic cider.

A century ago, the village of Bristol was a summer vacation destination for people from Montreal and even New York state. The McDougall family who owned Pine Lodge (more on the lodge in a future edition) and had tremendous success with the property. They decided to build a dance hall to provide further entertainment for the paying guests. In 1937, to commemorate the coronation of George VI, the dance hall was renamed Coronation Hall and is now the site of some truly delicious things.

For an entertaining look at the cidery and the village of Bristol, I recommend viewing the excellent CBC show Still Standing, Season 5, Episode 10. Host Johnny Harris is given a full history by Greg Graham and other locals.

How wonderful for the Graham family that they occasionally have older visitors who remember their young years at the dance hall. Greg tells a story of one elderly woman who stopped by to tell the Grahams that Coronation Hall was once known among the kids as “Conception Hall.” Bristol village was a dry community and so the young found other ways to entertain themselves.

Greg's parents were busy in the open kitchen dividing apple pies and scooping ice cream and we were all very grateful for a sumptuous, perfectly crusted pie.

At this point, our tour operator Brandon informed us he was adding a specialty outing for Aug. 24 and 25, when the Coronation Dance Hall will be transformed into a theatre for a performance of the farce “Funny Money” by British playwright Ray Cooney.The outing will include transportation, a barbecue dinner and dessert, hard and soft cider and the performance. Details and tickets can be found at Aventure Outaouais.

Our little group lined up to make our souvenir purchases of cider and baked goods but I held up the departure waiting for the latest hot batch of fab apple barbecue sauce to be bottled. Purchase made, we were off to Shawville, the village of many churches, and The Little Red Wagon Winery.

A winery straight from Niagara or the Okanagan

Scott Judd and Jennifer Dale-Judd started their winery dream in 2010 by planting 500 hybrid vines that would produce quality grapes in the harsher Outaouais climate. Today, the Little Red Wagon Winery has more than 5,400 plantings sitting out back of an attractive open-concept dining room and event space that would be equally at home in Niagara or the Okanagan.

We took our seats at a communal table and were presented with cheese and charcuterie boards followed by their wines P'tit Blanc, P'tit Rose and P'tit Rouge.

I was impressed with their lineup overall. I purchased a bottle of P'tit Rouge which was superb with an Italian stew of rosemary, basil, romano beans, onions, garlic, tomatoes, and braised pork. It was one of those happy pairing accidents that will stay with me to my last days. What a knockout. It would be hard to imagine selecting a more perfect wine.

The P'tit Blanc had an abundance of yellow fruit character (pear, plum and golden delicious apple) followed by that most delicious singular flavour of chervil. The wine had been put through full malo-lactic fermentation which gave it a round buttery character. The P'tit Rose offered up aromas and flavours of red berries and sweet herbs while the seductive and velvety P'tit Rouge with its luscious dark fruit, finished with notes of coffee and blackberry.

A word needs to be said about some of the food that was presented to us. The charcuterie of cured beef tenderloin, coppa and a semi-dry Montreal smoked meat was among the finest I've had. It came from Brylee Farms where all their animals are grass-fed and naturally raised. I will be driving out there sometime soon to see how they do things.

The smoked trout produced by the mother-daughter team at Cedar Creek trout farm was equally impressive and this is also a must-stop for any gastronome.

The people at Little Red Wagon were as lovely as their products and Jennifer's art that adorns the wine labels and the walls of the winery. It offered a relaxed ambience that provided the opportunity to melt away as you gaze upon Jennifer's wildflower garden. They also cater to other artistic sensibilities with their music series that sees such talent as David Francey playing the room.

Bellies full and bottles in hand we packed up and headed to Les Collines Winery near Luskville.

Wine, food and a microclimate at Les Collines

Les Collines (The Foothills) is situated at the base of the Gatineau Park Eardley Escarpment looming in the distance. It provides for an ideal microclimate making for successful ripening of cool-climate hybrid grapes. Gazing out at the land you are simply in awe that this beauty is less than an hour from Ottawa. Frankly, you’d swear you were anywhere else but here. Someplace more southern perhaps?

As we approached the rustic barn-like structure, I was once again struck by the sense that I'd wandered into an old western landscape.

We were greeted by owners Lisanne Binette and Martin Dandenault who, years earlier, chose to settle here, leaving the Eastern Townships behind. Martin makes the wine and oversees vineyard operations while Lisanne presents the face of the winery through her attractive, modernist paintings and the cheerful art that adorns the wine labels.

The wines are cleanly made and expressive but more reserved in style suggesting Martin has an eye towards creating a wine that is more meant to go with food rather than just patio drinking. Although I'm certain that he would encourage that as well.

Glasses in hand, Martin took us a few hundred metres uphill and told us of his vineyards. We saw first-hand more active devastation from those ever-present Japanese beetles. I asked what methods he considered in dealing with them and having tried everything, he determined that netting was the only successful way. From my training, I know that both the cost and labour involved in such a project is not amusing and indeed, hundreds of vines were under net.

We made our way back to the winery where there was great interest from the group in buying as much as they could carry. With that, it was back to the bus and homeward bound.

Both Lisanne and Martin are fascinating and gracious hosts. I know I will be back to learn even more about their project and to try wines that I missed on this tour.

Brandon Bolduc has done something rather special for the people and businesses of the Outaouais. He has created not only a fun and educational day tour but, just as importantly, generated a renewed interest in this region so filled with natural beauty, talented creators, and rich history. It would be surprising if he were not short-listed for a new business award. I recommend you visit Aventure Outaouais to learn about the variety of tour options.

Finally I would like to thank Annie Léveillée and Tourisme Outaouais for making this outing possible so that I might share this with you, our readers.

INSIDER EVENT PICK

The Capital Fair

The Capital Fair | Rideau-Carleton Raceway | Aug. 12 to Aug. 21, weekdays 1 pm to 11 pm, weekends 11 am to 11 pm | Admission: Under five years: Free, five to 12 years: $5, 13+ years: $10. Ride tickets are priced separately. All-day ride bracelet: $45

The big fair is back with shows and events for all ages and interests:

• Highland Games featuring: Caber toss, Highland dancing and musical acts;

• Kids Big Tent with: Captain Corbin The Magical Pirate, Puppet Shows and Doo Doo The Clown;

• The Canadian Raptor Conservancy Birds of Prey Show;

• Learn about forging metal through storytelling with the Blacksmith display.

DRINK PROFILE

Dunrobin Distillers

A short while ago I was honored to have received an invitation to attend the Swiss Ambassador to Canada's residence for an announcement about a business venture between Swiss whiskey producer Seven Seals and Ottawa's own Dunrobin Distilleries.

It was on the day of the event that the final contracts between the two companies had been signed, so the excitement was palpable. Attendees were beautifully turned out and good conversation was in the air as the libations flowed.

Dunrobin Distilleries had just come off some international successes winning awards in the UK Global Spirits Masters competition where they took Gold and Silver respectively for their Gin and Earl Grey Gin. At the US International Whisky Competition they took silver for both Best Canadian Whiskey and Best Canadian Rye Whiskey.

The partnership between Dunrobin and Seven Seals is significant for a number of reasons which I will get to. For Ottawa it spells millions injected into the local economy and a further $5.5 million investment from Seven Seals Innovation AG.

Dr. Dolf Stockhausen created a technology that allows whiskies to take on a well-aged character within just a few months instead of years, called Fast Forward Finishing (aka the Stockhausen Method). It is a technology that proves more sustainable as it requires less deforestation for barrel making.There are further economic advantages when whiskey barrels are not sitting in storehouses, sometimes aging for decades, taking up valuable real estate.Naturally, it also helps the whiskey get to market sooner.

Dunrobin expects to make their award winning whiskey in their traditional way, but will release new products using this groundbreaking method.

The men behind Dunrobin Distillers

The distillery was founded in 2017 by lifelong friends president Mark Watson and CEO Adrian Spitzer. It's a testament to the quality of their spirits and the talent they've assembled that they have signed this partnership, with international implications, in just five years.

There are further plans for expansion with a new facility being built in Stittsville. They will also be adding a training centre to further science and technology in the spirits production process.

Being a Canadian success story also means that there is a hockey connection. As managing director of Seven Seals Innovation in Canada James Hanlon said in a statement:

“I met Dr. Stockhausen 25 years ago while playing in Germany when his family company was a sponsor of the Krefeld Penguins. The Penguins, incidentally, are the home club of current Ottawa Senators Star Tim Stützle so we have come full circle!”

After the speeches, we broke for photos and canapes and got down to the business of sampling these award-winning spirits.

There will be a more detailed tasting profile to come in the weeks ahead but I was impressed by the quality and elegance of what was in my glass. All three Seven Seals products were so refined that I felt like I was drinking whisky more than ten years of age.

The Dunrobin rye whiskey was character-driven (nutty and peppery) but simultaneously soft and contemplative. It’s something I don't associate with many Canadian whiskies, as they are often designed for mixing. Earl Grey is my favourite afternoon tea and gin is a preferred tipple so their medal-winning Earl Grey Gin had to pass these lips with flying colours. Yes, we have a winner.

These are exciting times for Ottawa. We increasingly see top-flight culinary talent arrive. We have great breweries, KIN Vineyards near Carp winning bronze medals at the Decanter World Wine Awards. And now an international partnership that I suspect will only encourage further investment in the National Capital region.

“We set out to put Canada's capital on the map as a destination for premium spirits. With this partnership and the disruptive fast forward finishing technology that comes with it we are achieving that goal," CEO Adrian Spitzer said.

I'll end with an amusing bit of trivia. Dr. Stockhausen clearly has a singular and agile mind and to invent such a disrupting technology will have lasting benefits for the spirits industry. You have also likely benefited from one of his other inventions over the years, the fluid absorbing polymers that are used in every diaper around the world.

Thank you to the Swiss Embassy, Salome Meyer Swiss Ambassador to Canada and to Alyson Fair of Blue Sky Strategy Group for extending this invitation.

QUICK BITES

• Ottawa restaurant Perch has been longlisted for the Air Canada Best New Restaurants Awards 2022. Congratulations.

• Small Pony Barrel Works has two new releases: pineapple/mango/passionfruit SMÜV and Tropical Apocalypse, a barrel-aged golden sour with heaps of pineapple.

• Dominion City Brewery is holding their Pride Patio Party on Aug. 21. Food provided by Farinella, The Merry Dairy and Almanac.

• At some point many of us fell for the truffle oil scam. I know I did. Organic Authority in this article lays out what you’re really getting.

• Anna Thai Cuisine on Holland Ave. has permanently closed. This fine Thai eatery has been delighting Ottawans for more than a decade and it’s very sad news. I couldn’t believe my eyes so I called their number. It’s out of service.

THIS WEEK’S FOOD QUESTION

Ottawa has more and more restaurant options. Where do you go and what do you have to fill a particular craving?

PREVIOUS INSIDER EDITIONS

• Part one of our tour of Pontiac - read more

• The Burger Safari begins

• A great experience in Part Two of the Burger Safari

• World Class Chinese Cuisine in Ottawa? Yep!

Subscribe to Insider to read the rest.